|
|
Post by G724 PRO on Aug 7, 2011 18:00:25 GMT -5
I know this site is for track information but I figured every one is watching this one. I have a new motor that I have run for about a hour with break in oil. I am now wondering when I change oil should I use a synthetic oil, does any one have a suggestion on what oil I should use , This motor will only be use for racing.
|
|
|
|
Post by mallinckrodtracing on Aug 7, 2011 22:59:14 GMT -5
I use Mobile 1 synthetic.
|
|
|
|
Post by dennismopar73 on Aug 7, 2011 23:04:31 GMT -5
yeah break mine in with 10-30 with the lucas zinc additive,
make couple hits then put mobile 1 0-30 /5-30 thats all ive ever run for years
|
|
|
|
Post by hemiman4262003 on Aug 8, 2011 5:05:34 GMT -5
i run 15-40 moble delvac in my racecar,but im a truck mechanic
|
|
|
|
Post by sg3526 on Aug 8, 2011 6:40:09 GMT -5
I only use Valvoline VR-1 50W
|
|
|
|
Post by blackandblueracing on Nov 8, 2011 22:47:01 GMT -5
I run the initial fill with additive to break in the cam for 20 minutes then change it. Put in another crankcase full of oil and run it while I dial it in and check everything and let it help clean out all the assembly lube. Then I use Mobile 1 15w40
|
|
|
|
Post by warpedspeed on Nov 13, 2011 16:31:02 GMT -5
I'm getting away from mobil 1. I had a talk w/my machinist after trashing a flat tappet lifter and we have come to agree that it's too slick for a flat tappet w/ any spring pressure. It won't let the lifter turn. I think I'll go to brad penn. I still think it would be great with a roller.
If anyone disagrees, let me know, but it's the best theory I can come up with for now.
|
|
|
|
Post by eticket on Nov 14, 2011 7:42:42 GMT -5
I broke my 565 in with Kenndal 50wt. std oil. Made 4 pulls on the dyno then changed to Royal Purple 5-20 synthetic Never ever had any bearing or pressure issues. Keeps 70psi. Interesting fact is that when I changed from the break in oil to the synthetic I pick up 4" of vac.
|
|
|
|
Post by sg3526 on Nov 14, 2011 8:15:19 GMT -5
I'm getting away from mobil 1. I had a talk w/my machinist after trashing a flat tappet lifter and we have come to agree that it's too slick for a flat tappet w/ any spring pressure. It won't let the lifter turn. I think I'll go to brad penn. I still think it would be great with a roller. If anyone disagrees, let me know, but it's the best theory I can come up with for now. Brad Penn is basically Kendall oil. I will never use the stuff again in my lifetime. Built some motors for a friend that races with me in S/G, S/C. I run Valvoline VR-1 50 he was running Brad Penn that summer (last season) he lost 4 motors all due to some type of bearing failure. Both of our motors are almost identical and use all the same internals. I'm on my 5th season with one motor that hasn't ever had anything done to it rather than routine maintenance. We both run the same fuel (alcohol) from the same supplier so the deciding factor is the oil. Switched him over to Valvoline this season and both motors have had zero issues all season long. |
|
|
|
Post by dennismopar73 on Nov 14, 2011 10:11:29 GMT -5
I'm getting away from mobil 1. I had a talk w/my machinist after trashing a flat tappet lifter and we have come to agree that it's too slick for a flat tappet w/ any spring pressure. It won't let the lifter turn. I think I'll go to brad penn. I still think it would be great with a roller. If anyone disagrees, let me know, but it's the best theory I can come up with for now. There are so many things that go into what makes a cam lobe go away? Valve train issues of which, can be weak springs , to much springs, wrong valve lash, ( this can really be true on aluminum heads), contamination of the oil, (alcohol/water), Then you could say, that we let the bigger cams sit at idle to long as such the lifters do not rotate hardly at all. I have personally use all kinds of oils, I just happen to like the Mobil 1 , If my motors where to be built by someone and they recommended a certain oil, that's what I would use , after all its their motor. |
|
|
|
Post by slingshot383 on Nov 15, 2011 5:25:11 GMT -5
Oils without zinc have been linked to all sorts of internal ills to motors. If you must run an oil without it, add zinc to your oil, there are lot's of additives out there for that.
|
|
mnwsr
New Member
Posts: 43
|
Post by mnwsr on Jan 11, 2012 21:59:06 GMT -5
sg3526 - he was running Brad Penn that summer (last season) he lost 4 motors all due to some type of bearing failure.
I work for 1 of the few speed shops left and never saw or heard of bearing failure due to brad penn - I use it we sell it and its the old kendall gt1 the green oil - outlast many others out there. We had 1 guy that thought same as you and I am a retired service mgr - I went and looked at his problem - found oil pick up on bottom of pan ( no space ) and engine builder was trying to pin blame on something other them himself - theres nothing wrong with brad penn oil and many use it Performance Parts Plus granite city il.
|
|
Tray
Full Member
Posts: 123
|
Post by Tray on Jan 12, 2012 2:29:44 GMT -5
Got vr1 20-50 in my junk......
|
|
|
|
Post by sg3526 on Jan 12, 2012 9:06:20 GMT -5
sg3526 - he was running Brad Penn that summer (last season) he lost 4 motors all due to some type of bearing failure. I work for 1 of the few speed shops left and never saw or heard of bearing failure due to brad penn - I use it we sell it and its the old kendall gt1 the green oil - outlast many others out there. We had 1 guy that thought same as you and I am a retired service mgr - I went and looked at his problem - found oil pick up on bottom of pan ( no space ) and engine builder was trying to pin blame on something other them himself - theres nothing wrong with brad penn oil and many use it Performance Parts Plus granite city il. Like I said I used to use it back in the late 89's and early 90's when it was still Kendall GT-1. When I switched to alcohol is when we started having issues. As far as the motors of the guy that I run with they were all wiping out the mains and rods and I worked as a GM tech for 33 years and built more than a few motors even had Pee Wee down at the old Wise Speed Shop build a few. When we went back through the motors and put new rods (because they were destroyed) in the motors and never touched the pick up tube or the oil pump other than to clean it out the guy has had ZERO issues since then. The guy ran one of my spare motors and I made him run the Valvoline 50W and he never had an issue. I took the motor out of my Roadster this fall after 5 years and I wouldn't have an issue with putting the old bearings back in it they looked that good, and this after nearly a thousand runs on it. I guess everyone has their own preferences as to what they use, me I'm sticking with the Valvoline. I could go to a lighter weight oil and maybe pick up a little on E.T., but I run a throttle stop so I'm looking for a few thousandths here or there to qualify my car. I know what works for my combination so I'm not going to change any time in the near future. Oh, by the way after nearly a thousand passes in my Roadster I had only .006 cylinder taper so I had to bore the motor a whole .010 over, not to bad in my opinion. |
|
|
|
Post by rooster on Jan 12, 2012 14:05:19 GMT -5
Valvoline has taken my money since the late 70's. Off-road, street and strip with no complaints here!
|
|
Bujang Lah Kau kagak ada btol
