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Post by fastluv on Jun 25, 2012 7:58:37 GMT -5
whats the difference in building a blower motor verses o non blower motor can i take my 12:1 383 and put a blower on it or what needs to be done different thanks in advance for any info
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mnwsr
New Member
Posts: 43
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Post by mnwsr on Jun 25, 2012 8:08:33 GMT -5
Need to close up the ring gap or run a second ring total ring set. Reason second ring is top and oil ring help keep cylinder clean and farther down in cylinder away from distorsion caused by crap little thread at top of the stock gm blocks ( not a fond person of 5/8 thread at top of block and open to water jacket ). Tool steel second ring works great on blower and turbo cars. Get ready to shell out some $$$
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Post by sg3526 on Jun 25, 2012 14:28:36 GMT -5
12 to 1 is pretty steep to be putting under a blower. If you want it to live I suggest no more than 9 to 1. If you are already at 12 to 1 then buy yourself a Nitrous kit and spray it. Just run it on the fat side so it doesn't go into Nuclear meltdown.
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Post by slingshot383 on Jun 26, 2012 4:22:17 GMT -5
If you're running alcohol, the compression ratio is fine, not so much for gasoline. Cam design is different for blower motors as the timing events need to be different to take in account the boost pressure.
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bud SE/JF 5821
Full Member
Well if there is not going to be a track here,Guess I will haft to move back to the west coast.
Posts: 191
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Post by bud SE/JF 5821 on Jun 26, 2012 10:51:33 GMT -5
here is some thing I have found running a blown motor for the last 30 years : first off I am talking about a alka race motor : I run a Bowie tie after market block heavy nicole, siamese cyl,splay 4 bolt caps,heat treat crank,Alum float rods,splash guard in pan,forge pistones with teflon skirts,Comp 7.5 to 1 static, rings that will seat fast(iron),timming gear no chain, This is a must with blown motors "O" ring the block, run copper head gaskets,head studs NOT head bolts and using copper head gaskets instead of the std 65 lbs torq you need to go to 85 to 90 lbs but the problem with that on a stock block you will pull the threads right out of the block,Dart heads with 23*angle plugs and ported and releave with 1.6 and 2.08 stainless valves,HD pushrods,Alum roller rockers 1.5 ,valves spring are triple with 300 lbs on the seat and full life is 750 lbs, I run a engle roller mech cam 7.58 lift,ignition is your option but I have a vertex mag, but I do like the MSD setup as well,and if you are going to run a street blower(no teflon) watch how hard you spin it But if you are planing on running a race Blower ( Teflon) you wont haft to spin it near as hard but you will need to restrip it quite often(rebuild the blower). I hope this will give you some idea as what involved in building a blown motor,if you want to go fast its all about money lots of it. I would not recommend running the comp ratio you are running because of pre-ignition problems to say the least,Then we go to the injection or carbs and the real fun begins,Too lean Back fire the blower or too Fat and Hydraulic the Head possable. Good luck. Bud Below I change the injection in this picture to a Hilborn 2 pot What the Hay it's only money..
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