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Post by crossbonesdennis on Nov 28, 2011 22:12:51 GMT -5
It looks like NHRA is dropping the Snell 2000's next year. That means your helmet will have to be a 2005 or newer.
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Post by topgundiv3 on Nov 28, 2011 23:36:49 GMT -5
It looks like NHRA is dropping the Snell 2000's next year. That means your helmet will have to be a 2005 or newer.
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Post by topgundiv3 on Nov 28, 2011 23:37:41 GMT -5
Another stupid rule, just like new belts being required every two years.
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Post by slingshot383 on Nov 29, 2011 5:21:58 GMT -5
You're supposed to get a new helmet every 5 years anyway. The linings don't last forever.
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Post by hemiman4262003 on Nov 29, 2011 12:56:30 GMT -5
yea mines a snell 2000,nhra wants 2007 or better,so ill be getting a new helmet for next year
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Post by dennismopar73 on Nov 29, 2011 13:12:39 GMT -5
well mine will be new one anyways!! so no problemo!
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Post by crossbonesdennis on Nov 29, 2011 14:09:19 GMT -5
yea mines a snell 2000,nhra wants 2007 or better,so ill be getting a new helmet for next year 2005 and newer. The 05's are good till 2017.
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smalltime
New Member
crackin 10 sec zone
Posts: 24
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Post by smalltime on Dec 2, 2011 20:20:40 GMT -5
How can you tell if you distributor is "Locked out" or not? What advantage do you gain either way?
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smalltime
New Member
crackin 10 sec zone
Posts: 24
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Post by smalltime on Dec 2, 2011 20:21:30 GMT -5
How can you tell if you distributor is "Locked out" or not? What advantage do you gain either way?
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Post by slingshot383 on Dec 3, 2011 5:16:11 GMT -5
Easy way, hold the cam engagement (small end of distributor), and try to turn the rotor, if it doesn't turn, timing is locked out. Some people feel that it eliminates a possible run problem.
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Post by sg3526 on Dec 3, 2011 9:49:13 GMT -5
How can you tell if you distributor is "Locked out" or not? What advantage do you gain either way? Easiest way if it's still in the motor is to grab the rotor and twist it liked you're trying to advance and retard it. If it moves more than a 1/4 inch then it's not locked out, if it doesn't it is locked. The best way to describe any advantage would be to say that while you are making your pass distributor timing can fluctuate several degrees and cause a significant difference in ET's and performance. By locking down the dist. you eliminate that element out of the equation.
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Post by harleymon on Dec 5, 2011 20:20:55 GMT -5
I will new to racing next year and want to know if I need a snell m rated or a snell sa rated helmet. I have s10 that will probably run at best mid 10's. There are no power adders on it. Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by crossbonesdennis on Dec 5, 2011 22:10:53 GMT -5
Either one will work. Snell M tends to be less expensive than the Snell SA. The main difference is a Snell SA is fire retardant and the Snell M isn't. The SA will have a yellow chin strap. A M is usually DOT rated also. A SA isn't. M's usually have larger eye ports for better peripheral vision. If you were to run 9.99 or faster you would need a full face helmet.
99.99% of the racers (Jr dragster to Jeg's super quick) I've sold helmets to choose the Snell M. I wear a M in the altered. My dad and brother also wear m.
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Post by crossbonesdennis on Dec 5, 2011 22:16:40 GMT -5
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Post by slingshot383 on Dec 6, 2011 5:29:52 GMT -5
If you run fuel, or a center steer car with the engine in front, no floor over the transmission, you need the SA helmet.
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