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Post by didjacrash on Nov 16, 2010 21:42:13 GMT -5
I also run alchohol with top lube and a Jim Evans carb, The only trouble i had was the floats getting soaked and sinking., I now turn off my mechanical fuel pump at the end of the day and run it dry, Then i have a bottle set up with gas to feed the carb through the metering block vents and make it run on gas till i know all the alchohol is out of the carb and motor. ( Alchohol is fairly corrosive, even with top lube) , then i leave some gas in the fuel bowls, and WD-40 down the carb and work the throttle plates a little and that is how i store the car.
Jim Evans is the guy to get the carb from in my opinion., Other than the floats, i havent touched it in 6 years. It was kind of hard to start but i put about a 25 degree start retard that helped out a bunch. Also to make things easier i put some gas in the carb to help start on cold days.
I was thinking of trying out an 1150 gas Dominator i have., but my door car is too consistant on alcohol i didnt want to mess with it. I have an untapped full drum of VP Oxyginated racing gas if anyones interested. I paid Wicks Racing fuel $385 for it a few months ago. ( May also sell 1150 and new Victor intake BBC)
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Post by hemiman4262003 on Nov 17, 2010 11:06:24 GMT -5
i might take you up on that racing gas
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Post by didjacrash on Nov 17, 2010 14:02:20 GMT -5
I will try and remember to look tonight at the barrel and let you know exactly what it is.
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Post by hemiman4262003 on Nov 17, 2010 14:27:53 GMT -5
ok thanks and what octane,if i dont go to alky i might get that,but im still going to try to go to alky as i know it has more benifets,and i want to get into the 9s
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Post by sg3526 on Nov 17, 2010 15:06:53 GMT -5
we just dynoed a friend of mines motor last week. we ran it on gas and alky and it made 54 more horsepower on alky than it did gas and about the same increase in torgue. We are going back to try some cam changes and see if we pick up even more.
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Post by didjacrash on Nov 18, 2010 9:21:00 GMT -5
Ok- What i have is an untapped 55 gallon drum of the oxygenated VP113 racing gas bought from Wicks Racing fuel. $385.00.
I live in the Hermann Area and depending on where someone lives we could talk about how to get it to them.
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Post by omegamotorsports2 on Nov 21, 2010 10:02:30 GMT -5
A motor will actually make more HP with gas than it will alcohol. An alcohol motor will make more torque however. The pickup in ET is due to the additional torque to get you moving.
Tricks we've learned over the years with running alcohol (methanol, not E85):
Put provisions in the motor to keep heat in it. We run freeze plug style block heaters and use a magnetic heater you can stick on the oil pan. Even with running gas, it nice to get heat in the motor and oil before firing it up. They will also keep heat in the motor between runs on a cold, windy day. Also, don't be afraid to restrict airflow across the radiator.
Do your homework on your carb setup and fuel delivery setup. If you don't get this right, you will be changing oil all the time, or burning it to the ground. Belt drive pumps are simple setups. If you prefer an electric, I definitely recommend using a bypass type log that someone else has mentioned. We run carbs, and have used Evans, C&S, and QUick Fuel. The 4150 base Evans carb idled very fat. It was tough to get heat in the motor. One of the 4150 base C&S carbs we ran on a small block had some lean out issues on the top end, the C&S dominator carb I run on a big block I have been happy with. The quick fuel we have is a dominator on a small block and it worked beautifully right out of the box.
Put a vacuum pump on the motor!!!!! It draws moisture out of the crankcase, not to mention you will pick up power. We will get upwards of 8 oz of water out of the catch can on a humid day. You don't want that in your oil!!!! With the addition of the vacuum pump, along with the right fuel system setup, you will keep the oil very clean. I changed my oil once this year. Granted, I didn't race much, but probably only made about 50 runs. That oil change was a week ago when I put it away for the winter, and its crystal clear!!!
Get the setup right!!! If your oil is getting milky, fix the problem, don't just change the oil every other week. How much you use is a good indicator of your setup. If your running mid 10's and are using (notice I said using, not burning) a gallon and a half of alcohol, something's wrong! If your not burning it, it's ending up in the crankcase. My 840HP 509 will use right at a gallon per 1/4 mi pass, including burnout and the cruise throught the pits, the 630HP 383 we run uses about 3/4 gallon per run. These are both mid 9-second cars. Every setup is different and you can get them to be very efficient. I know a guy with a low 7 second dragster with a 555 that uses less than 3/4 gallon per run.
Get the alchohol out of the carb and motor when you're done racing. ALL of it. Also, shut the fuel off and let the car run until it dies and keep pumping the gas and starting it until you can't start it anymore. Methanol is very corrosive, and if there is any of it left in the motor, it will eat the cylinder walls and build corrosion in the carburetor. Some guys will run gas through the carb once the alcohol is gone. Whatever you do, just get the alcohol out.
All that "work" being said, I wouldn't go back to gas.
Good luck.
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Post by dennismopar73 on Feb 2, 2011 16:17:49 GMT -5
how much 'real hp ' does a vacum pump add ,
and does it work with any alcohol/gas combo??
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Post by flodeezul on Feb 2, 2011 16:43:15 GMT -5
yes alky is very corrosive. when i raced in California. A friend had to tanks, ten gallon (alky) and a one gallon(pump gas). he would start the car and warm it up on pump gas then it would switch to alky. At the end of the day he would let the car idle on pump.
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